Viet Nam - Reports


P.S. No 1 - Contributed December 1997 by : Anon

QUOTE :

"Hi - where to start.

Motoring in Nam is a new art form. I have, as a background, International Racing and Rallying Experience as well as having driven in 35 countries of the World. I have in the past driven LHD in RHD countries and Vice Versa. I have always been a person that no matter the journey I would drive myself.

I have even driven a Mini Cab (Taxi) in London. Now with that background one would think that there would be no surprises or shock left in the world.

Well. My assumptions were wrong. There is a whole new world of driving experiences out there to be had in VN. I have been a regular visitor and resident in VN for 6 years and I have great joy in relating and retelling many of the experiences to be had. I could and would write a very large book on the subject.

I really must say that life experiences in Viet Nam are most pleasurable and if one then matches that with driving there is no intention to criticize or complain. It is different and it requires ATTITUDE - everything requires attitude. Aggression is an absolute waste of time, impatience is not accepted and aptitude is not required.

In most countries drunken driving is frowned upon - in Nam it is a prerequisite to settle the nerves.

The facts: The vehicles in Viet Nam consist of three groups. Old almost vintage relics of previous years. In the South of VN those vehicles which were imported by servicemen and the likes. English, French, German, Italian and some Russian. In the North the Russian and Czech classics.

These older vehicles have been relentlessly repaired by any means available and can be 'composite cars'. Imagine a '59 Belevedere Pillarless Hard Top Fury with a box steel chassis and a 2 L Diesel Engine. It had an extra row of seats with 12 people on board. Imagine a 'Maigret' Citroen with 3 rows of seats. You see it all. Steering and Brakes are mainly of Truck generics adapted to fit where they touch. Body panels have been beaten paper thin. There is no end to the ingenuity. Transport is an important factor in the life of a Vietnamese.

The next range of vehicles are the imports which have been allowed since the Doi Moi (New Opening of the Doors) period. Predominately from Japan and all in the 10 year old Vintage. Great numbers of Nissan Bluebird, Toyota Camry and similar sized 4 and 6 cylinder vehicles around the 2 L mark were imported.

The tourist companies actually own and operate quite large fleets of cars and drivers who are hired out on a daily, weekly or monthly contract basis. They are officially designated and must carry with them an official appointment slip which has the 'chop' (red stamp) of the company on it. This is checked by the Police at any time and if not carried the car can be held and the driver (and sometimes the passenger as well) can be required to stay in Gaol until the fine is paid.

There are a number of new car outlets and several car factories operating in Viet Nam. Toyota, Ford, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Kia, and BMW have all got factories in the making or already built. The quality of in Country CKD build is superb.

Retail workshops (mechanical & body) are appearing everywhere. Some are official and many are multi franchised. Most rural work is done where the car stops. I have seen gear box, engine and all laid out in the middle of the road with the traffic merrily passing by.

So much for the cars.

Driving at most times is slow and hazardous. I strongly recommend the use of a driver and car (at about $35 USD a day) for anyone on a first trip. Rental cars are available at reasonable rates but who dares mingle when there are experts available as such low rates.

The hired drivers prefer not to drive at night and in a 12 hour day one can only expect to travel some 200 kms. The roads are narrow and not well formed. The tar sealed roads are in reasonable condition but with the amount of foot and animal traffic on them at all hours the driveable part of the roadway is barely one lane.

Sign posting is adequate but street numbers are impossible as they are subject to three previous systems. There can be a 1a at both ends of the street and 2a can be in the middle next to 47a. The Vietnamese get lost very easily so it is totally impossible for foreigners.

Few houses have the name of the occupier and many different companies can be in the same building - then there are the street names that have the same name but the accent or tonation can be different. Taxi fleets now consist of very competitive drivers of Kia 4 door saloons (1300 & 1600 cc) and are quite cheap. Flag fall $1-2 and about 60 cents a Km. They do not like giving change but will wait for you to make the return journey if they have driven you to remote spot in the city.

The city buses are old and generally of Russian origin. They stagger along at 40 kms and if you are first on board you may get a proper seat. Wooden seats are added to the aisles to get more on board. They are cheap and also reliable. Some modern Mitsubishi Coaches are now coming on stream. There are some very nice Luxury Coaches available for formal tour operators. They are really too big for the roads and take an age to reach the destinations.

Accidents are regular and bad. The locals travel by Toyota Minibus on longer journeys. These are very crowded with up to 20 people on board. They travel dangerously fast and race each other on the roads. The best looking females get to sit in the front seat - next to the driver. They overtake dangerously and I have seen many accidents involving this form of transport.

The hire drivers very rarely have accidents as they would not have a job after - no matter the right or wrong. There is an unwritten law that exists simply pointing out that when an accident happens both parties are at fault. This is an excellent influence on the employed drivers and ensures that they avoid accident like the plague. First Aid is close at hand but there are few ambulances. Service for foreigners is very good as they normally have insurance to pay which is a good incentive.

I am described as the oldest biker in Ha Noi as I have taken to the inimitable Honda Dream II as my chosen mode of transport. Many thousands are sold each month at the Government Regulated price of $2350 USD. They are locally assembled and some are imported from Thailand. They are a 6 year old model that would have to be the most reliable vehicle since the Model T.

Cheap, economical, easy to ride and fashionable are the bikes best traits. There are very few two stroke bikes available and are not popular for the noise and smell. The Dream will idle silently and is very environmentally clean in accordance with the lifestyle.

In the south trucks are nearly all Mack's and ex Military whereas in the North they are generally the smaller and slower Russian Military style. A number of large second hand trucks are coming in from the States or Japan. New rules have been introduced to stop the importation of 'converted' RHD to LHD models.

There have been large numbers of Mitsubishi Pajero and Toyota Land Cruisers imported for Government Departments and Tourist Companies. These are very good value and can carry up to 7 or 8 passengers. The are the best transport for countryside work, are safe and usually have the best drivers.

With a 200% import duty imposed some of these 4 WD are up near the $100k mark retail. Nobody will let idiots drive that sort of value. Many of the drivers speak good English and are quite professional They become good friends if you treat them well and make very good guides. As they do not get paid well they know that by giving good service you will add a few dollars to the bill for their well-being. I recommend this action - it is an investment not a bribe.

Footnote:

Over the years we have always had a competition when travelling the road to keep up our interest. "Spot the Vehicle" - to be honest we have seen an example or every make and model of vehicle from all round the world made since 1950 (about). Even a RR and a Ferrari. Mercedes are very common along with BMW and others.

I can give you much more and have a complete listing of garages and agents in my files somewhere. I apologize for the ramblings but the subject matter is delightful.

I trust this will help."

UNQUOTE.

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